Introduction
Since TV and Projector calibration can seem a bit scary at first, I wanted to detail what is needed to do manual calibration on a TV or Projector. I would also recommend this article for those that use auto-calibration because it is important to check auto-calibration results manually after the fact.
Required Equipment
Sensor
You can use a lot of different sensors with HCFR and they are grouped into two categories:
- Colorimeters
- Spectrometers
Colorimeters are generally much better at gamma calibration and colour calibration next black so they are a must for today’s high-contrast displays.
Spectrometers are generally better at colour, but they are not great with low luminance measurements.
To calibrate a display, a high-quality colorimeter is a must. If you wanted more accuracy, you can use a spectrometer to profile the colorimeter to the display and then use that profile with the colorimeter to calibrate.
The following are high-quality colorimeters that you can use:
- Colorchecker Display
- Colorchecker Display Pro
- Colorchecker Display Plus
- Spyder X
If you wanted to buy a colorimeter on the used market, you can also get the following ones:
- Colormunki Display
- i1 Display Pro 3
- i1 Display Pro
- i1 Display Pro Plus
I would not recommend any of the other consumer-grade older colorimeters. The ones I underlined are suitable for HDR displays above 1000nits of brightness. However, if you don’t have money for those, start with a colorimeter that is cheaper as any of the above instruments would be a worthwhile investment.
The above models all have sealed optics and therefore will not deteriorate as rapidly as older designs. In fact, I wouldn’t be worried if you bought on on the used market as your first instrument.
Stand
You may need a microphone or camera stand if you are calibrating a projector. It is simply much easier to set up and aim a sensor if you mount it on a stand. I use a microphone stand that comes with a little microphone clip to mount non-standard microphones on it. It is perfect for holding and aiming my colorimeter.
Computer
You will need a computer – preferably a laptop. But it can be any computer you can have in close proximity to the display.
Required Software
Windows
You will need to install Windows on the computer. If you have a PC, this should not be an issue. Any Windows installation from Windows 8 onwards will work fine, possibly even older.
For a Mac with an Intel chip, you can use Bootcamp. However, you can install Windows in a virtual machine on both intel and M1/M2 chips. You can even accomplish this freely using Virtual Box which even runs on Linux and Solaris, so you can install Windows and the tools you need right on your desktop – as long as you have enough space on your computer.
The paid alternatives for Mac, such as Parallels Desktop, are better in terms of usability – if you don’t mind paying for them. But I was using Virtual Box for years and never had an issue.
HCFR
Although the original project site is here, the latest version as of Jul 2022 is actually on GitHub here. You need to grab and exe file and run it on Windows. It should install everything you need.
There are paid software packages as well of course such as ColorSpace, ChromaPure and Calman. However, you do not need to pay for them as HCFR has most of the functions of the expensive packages and is perfect for learning calibration.
Sensor Drivers
Most of the above sensors are installed automatically by Windows and then made available by a software package called ArgyllCMS in HCFR. HCFR is built using ArgyllCMS so you don’t need to download it.
If a sensor is installed by Windows but it doesn’t show up in HCFR, there is a driver folder in the HCFR installation folder with an ini file in it that contains the driver packages. You would need to go to Device Manager in Windows and point it to this init file to see if the driver is loaded from there.
Should a sensor be quite new and a driver is not available in HCFR, you can download the latest version of ArgyllCMS and see if the sensor has support using that package. The installation of a driver from Argyll is the same as I described above – so it needs to be done manually.
Patterns
You have the option of running the patterns of a disk or off the computer you are running HCFR from.
For SDR, it may be easier to run patterns off the computer.
For HDR, it may be easier to run patterns off a disk as setting up the computer to do HDR patterns is a bit more tricky, especially with a TV. This is because you can usually force a projector into HDR mode manually, but you cannot usually do this on a TV. Hence for a TV, a UHD Blu Ray player or media player is required with either a UHD disk or UHD MP4 pattern files.
- Free SDR patterns: AVSHD
- Free HDR patterns: Mehanik’s HDR10 patterns, DVS HDR10 Patterns
If you wanted to run HDR patterns off your PC, thatโs also possible. You PC does not need to output an HDR signal – in fact, it will mess with the patterns of it does. It needs to be in SDR mode. For projectors, you force the display into HDR after configuring HCFR for HDR standard settings (not output). For TVs you need an HDFury device to inject the correct HDR meta-data into the signal to get the TV to interpret the SDR signal as HDR. HCFR takes care of the rest.
Required Knowledge
There are free guides out there such as the one here. They are a great starting point.
However, the free guides only present a high-level view of calibration and don’t cover all the different options for calibrating greyscale, gamma and gamut (CMS).
This is why I wrote the Display Calibration Guide, which is a 300 page, two-volume guide to use as a reference for both SDR and HDR calibration. In it I explain pretty much all the HCFR options you will need to use and how to use them as you work through calibrating your TV or projector. The guide comes with email support and will be continuously updated over the next 12-24 months with more and more information to make it the ultimate guide to HCFR and display calibration.
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Hey there Roland,
Thanks for providing these priceless resources. I bought an i1Pro years ago along with a Lumagen 3D and tried to teach myselfโฆit ended up in failure and a general bad attitude toward self calibrating. Well, Iโm no quitter! Iโm thinking of buying used colorimeter (I sold my unit) and software and practicing on my JVC RS500 in anticipation for a future pj upgrade (probably Epson LS12K as I have a multipurpose room with 50% gaming/50% movies so putting about 2000 hrs a year and JVC bulbs arenโt cheap!). My question isโฆis the JVC RS500 a particularly bad model to start out on? I get from the LS12000. report that dynamic mode on that is NOT a good lace to begin learning calibration. You graciously provide links to several software suites (HCFR, etc) but is there a paid software that is more intuitive (even though maybe less thorough) or that has automated work streams, tutorials, etc? Iโm trying to increase my odds of
success as Iโm not sure there will ever be a 3rd attempt to teach myself calibration!
Thanks again for all the help,
Cory
Hi Cory,
Thank you for your kind words and you are very welcome.
The JVC RS500 is a great place to start. Its CMS works very well, and autocal will get you there 95% with only minimal touch-ups required.
Calman has the most intuitive workflows but it is very expensive and I donโt teach it. ColourSpace is very advanced but I personally find it harder to use than HCFR.
Since The Display Calibration guide includes very detailed workflows for HCFR, I would advise you to go with that. The whole calibration business will make a lot more sense as you go through the guide, including the reasons why we do things, than following some pre-made workflow. As a workflow doesnโt replace calibration strategy and common sense, neither of which can be gotten from a software package. So I think it would still lead to frustration and years of trial and error unless you took a course too.
So I would recommend you get the guide, and use HCFR. You will be successful with it, as many people have been without ANY prior knowledge to calibration. So youโre already ahead of the curve.
Put your past failed experience down to that: just dipping your toes in.
Without proper guidance, everyone would fail on their first attempt. You should have seen my first calibration! It doesnโt mean anything. ๐
So forget about it, and try it with proper guidance this time. You will get a much better result, then over time as you practice you get even better results. But the guide condenses 15 years of experience so you are starting from a better place I did.
Cheers,
Roland
Ps. Look, this isnโt a sales pitch but if I believed in day to day users spending $1000s on software packages, Iโd be teaching Calman. Professional calibrators should use that, enthusiasts have a perfectly good tool in HCFR.
Good to know.
It appears that JVC autocal only supports Sounder 5/proโฆas this isnโt the most accurate meter (and Iโll eventually want to calibrate a plasma and OLED) would it be a better idea to go with i1/Colorchecker for the versatility? Is there any difference in ease of learning?
I prefer the ColorChecker myself on all fronts. You can get a DLL hack for autocal to have support for it. Either get my Autocal guide or look on AVS to see how. But it wonโt be a problem!
Hi Roland,
Would the Calibrite Display Pro HL also work (with autocal and HCFR)?
Hi Jeroens. Yes, the new HL sensors will work.